Through the Mountains

Part 4 of Mongolian Honeymoon resumes at a guesthouse in Tsetserleg, the capital of Arkhangai, with a broken bike and illnesses to overcome.

Well, Tsetserleg was a much-needed rest stop if there ever was one. After getting a lift from some friendly locals out in the hinterlands shortly after Claire’s saddle broke, we were eager to relax. The owner of Fairfield Guest House, a clever Aussie named Murray, quickly helped us order a new saddle from Ulaanbaatar, sparing us the misery of a potential second early return to the capital.

Unfortunately, I had contracted a mild illness, and it hit Claire even harder. Our plan for one night became three, complete with a trip to the hospital for her. Forced to take it slow, we eventually got moving again feeling stronger and better for the rest. It’s been a tough trip between repeated mechanical issues, exposure to temperature extremes, and sickness, but we’ve persevered and were still eager to carry on.

For the remainder of our journey, with some advice from Murray, we planned a route winding through mountainous, unpaved backroads before eventually reaching Mörön, the capital of Khövsgöl Aimag. We decided our priority would be to reach its namesake lake, Mongolia’s largest, as one of the final highlights of the trip before catching a bus back to Ulaanbaatar.

The route consisted of two roughly 250-kilometer sections over two weeks, with a midway stop at Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake and Khorgo Volcano National Park. The region is remote and sparsely populated, with a handful of small towns providing resupply opportunities every couple of days. A cold soda, a beer, and a moderately fresh loaf of bread can really hit the spot out here, though in hindsight we probably carried about twice as many snacks as we needed.

The landscape wasn’t too different from what we experienced in the Orkhon Valley, with towering mountains, forests, and flowing rivers accompanying us each day. The main difference was a welcome reduction in river crossings, though in exchange we faced steeper climbs, some so severe that the bikes had to be pushed. Monsoon storms remained a constant threat. We even had to pitch the tent twice in one day to avoid them, though getting at least a little wet is inevitable.

We’re still taking our knocks in the closing stretch of the trip. Claire took a small tumble on a downhill and put the well-stocked first aid kit she brought, along with a steady supply of ibuprofen, to good use. Most of these roads are in pitiful condition, and though riding a loaded bike down with speed on them is exhilarating,I’m honestly surprised it’s only happened once to us.

We arrived in Mörön with a week left before our scheduled return to Ulaanbaatar to prepare for our departure from Mongolia. As usual, we were desperate for showers, laundry, and some kind of vegan fare. Claire’s phone is busted too as if she hasn’t suffered enough misfortune, but she’s just gonna deal with it for the moment and carry on as the Brits do.

Now we’ve got our eyes firmly set on Lake Khövsgöl. This majestic lake, nestled within a national park, lies just 100 kilometers north along a paved road. We’ve made it into something larger than life as we strived through these mountains. Our ride there and back to Mörön next week will serve as the final chapter of our cycling journey.